Vanessa Bruno

As 2019 marks the 20th anniversary of Vanessa Bruno, it’s fair to say the brand perseveres based on those same values. Bruno hasn’t been on the official Paris Fashion Week schedule for some years, yet she has maintained a put-together, relatable approach that women continue to appreciate. “I feel good because I feel confident in what I do,” she said of reaching the milestone.

By channeling O’Keeffe’s life in New Mexico, this lineup ended up more thematic than usual. A gaucho via Rive Gauche vibe gave distinct personality to several looks (see: the ponchos, high-waisted pants, knee-high boots, rounded-crown felt hats, and a generally earthy palette). Prints and embroideries found on folksy dresses and winter coats alike were reworked from traditional Native American motifs. “I’ve always sought out authenticity,” said Bruno, when asked about those pieces. “And there has always been an Arts and Crafts aspect to my designs.”

That being the case, multicolored sweaters were handwoven (albeit in Italy), as were straps on a deluxe version of Bruno’s signature cabas tote bag, quite attractive in gradient wool felt. But for all the new textural fabrics, streamlined Victorian looks arrived back in the Bruno vernacular. Which is to say, if you’re not feeling this season’s O’Keeffe-isms, lace-paneled looks and a bias-cut dress in brick red would be worth considering. Plush mohair sweaters with fringe along the back of the arms stood out as a cozy compromise.